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Mercedes ML350 W166 Bluetec DEF Tank Heater Pump changeover repair test Adblue 2014 SCR OM642

Mercedes ML350 W166 Bluetec DEF Tank Heater Pump changeover repair test Adblue 2014 SCR OM642

How to drop your DEF tank and remove and replace the DEF Pump, Heater and Level Sensor unit

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19 thoughts on “Mercedes ML350 W166 Bluetec DEF Tank Heater Pump changeover repair test Adblue 2014 SCR OM642

  1. Hi all, not sure if anyone is still monitoring this video's comments but ran ito the issues of an initial code P205C, with alot of "online research" the most common component to change was the heater/pump A1664710775. Bought a replacement part from a mob in Melbourne guarantee better than OEM lifing and 12 months warranty. Since replacing the part and now filling my ADBLUE tank i have experienced the engine light still on, it is giving me codes P2BA9, P13DF (intermitent) and P13E4. Also counting down kms until can not restart engine. I noticed some white smoke from the exhaust and a sweet smell at the same time. Ive exhausted searching for an answer does anyone here know what I should be trying next?

  2. I have the om642 in a 2012 c350cdi I find best thing to do with these engines is remap egr delete swirl flap motor delete gut the dpf and delete it, car runs much better and reliably. Ad blue can also be deleted ( my car doesn’t have as blue but if it did I would have it deleted)

  3. * IMPORTANT***
    Hi everyone, their has been a re-call for all ML250 W166 ECU SOFTWARE. Im in melbourne australia and we had limited kms remaining, dashboard also said ADBLUE and NOX sensor. The car ECU also locks out anyone from making any changes so both NOX sensors will need replacing for free to be able to do software update.We almost spend several thousand dollars at private mechanic, lucky we rang mercedes. All the best

  4. Hello Jackpwc01, your video was perfect for me to view as my 2014 ML350 W166 (42,000 klms) has a code P205C Reductant tank temperature sensor circuit low. The Australian Mercedes dealership said its the heater unit in the AdBlue tank short to ground. What I'm interested in is your resistance reading of the new and old units where identical. When the new unit was fitted did the fault clear ??. My car is doing the same as Phillip T smoking and very strong ammonia smell. Mercedes wants $9K to replace the heater and 2 x Nox sensors, but could it simply be wiring dry joint or something. Appreciate any feedback from you or other in the group. Cheers from downunder

  5. Check my video I deleted my ml350 runs great, I'm just not sure the egr is still fonctionnal, I'd like to be sure it stop going back into the engine. Thanks if you can help

  6. Hi jackpwc01, after all of the installation, did you top off the AdBlue fluid, ML350 2014? I initially got code P20EB for heater problem, then after replace the heat unit, the code P20E8 came up. Will topping off AdBlue help the P20E8 code removal?

  7. FYI, I just got the repair kit and in it are expected GOOD measurements for the Mercedes DEF Tank components. The heater should read 2-4.5 ohms between pins 1(White) and 2(Red) on connector A. The Temp sensor should 10-11Kohms at room temp, resistance will decrease as temp rises, between pin 3(small white) on Connector A and pin 1(grey)on connector B. The level sensor should read 4.2Kohms between the common pin 1(Grey) on connector B and each of the 3 sensors for low (Red), half (Blue) and full tank(Yellow). I hope that helps someone diagnose theirs. Phil

  8. The dealer may have said that the heater had failed, as a reference to the whole assembly. It may have actually been your temp sensor that failed and not the heater.I don't know what resistance the sensor should read, if it can be measured. I got a "check engine" light on my 2014 ML350 (with 94000Kms) and using my scanner it told me that the DEF temp sensor "had a malfunction" code 205B22. I reset that a few times, but it would keep returning after a day or two. Then the code changed to 205C16 DEF temp sensor "has a short circuit to ground". That code would not reset. Car is now intermittently blowing a lot of white smoke with the corresponding ammonia smell of way too much DEF injected. Just ordered a replacement unit ($620CDN including tax and next day shipping by UPS) and am going to change it this weekend. Thanks again for your most valuable tips. Phil

  9. So let me get this straight because if it can go wrong, I’m likely to make the same mistake: when you did the job the first time you didn’t put in the all o-ring at all or you doubled it not realizing it was already seated in the warmer?

  10. P20BD code is what has me searching for a guide to how to do this replacement . Your video is a godsend! Thank you. I hope everything comes apart as simply as you describe it. 😆

  11. Thanks for the recording. I went through the same issue – first error code (P205C) followed by the change of the heater "pot". Unfortunately, I had not put the O ring around the small exit pipe of the pump so it started to leak. I ended up removing everything one more time and so far, so good. I am now in the process of sending a letter to Bosch to ask for their fair share of the cost as it's completely not acceptable to see these parts falling after 5 years and less than 50 000 miles. If there is a lawyer interested in starting a class action as I suspect that thousands of people have been impacted by a similar issue – it's the right timing.

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